“Every movement felt like a struggle, and three minutes after I found myself stumbled on the ground, untying from my rope looking up wondering why and how it all felt so wrong?”
Courses to get GB climber Molly Thompson-Smith on the wall.
The 21-year-old Sky Sports Scholar opens on her recent challenges at a few of the events around the climbing calendar because the 2020 Olympics edges nearer.
“I only really like to go into a contest feeling ready and sitting on the plane from Munich to Tokyo I felt that I was prepared.
The biggest event of this year, the World Championships was in Hachioji, Japan. Close to a year before the 2020 Games, this event felt like the.
I decided my period prior to the event could be spent training lead in Innsbruck, the facility that delivers the best training for it.
It was hard deciding if more time acclimatising at Japan or even more time instruction lead to this wonderful facility would be beneficial… so I attempted to get as near both as I possibly could!
I prioritised the great training and world-class routes but attempted to mimic.
This was a little hard at the start, but after a couple of days I went to bed in the night and waking up between 4 and 5:30 in the morning, meaning I had cut down on the jet lag by hours!
I felt that the best I’d felt in a long time around the wall Innsbruck, even despite the odd sleeping and eating habits. I climbed smartly and efficiently; peaking in my elimination sets and making decisions.
I settled into the new time zone with simplicity and came in Japan five times earlier.
Like I was doing the discipline, I managed to support my team-mates and buddies.
I had two periods, and felt light and floaty… I was totally surprised at how well everything was piecing together as I usually feel the effects of long travel and jet lag in my coordination, energy levels and finger health.
After what felt like a life of watching other men and women compete, my qualification round arrived. Show what had come of all the work I had been putting in at home and I was itching to get around the wall.
I felt great in warm-up and better .
After my very first climb, I knew I had guaranteed my place at the semi-final supplied nothing went horrifically wrong.
I felt relaxed knowing I did precisely what I needed to do without much effort to progress to the next round in a location that was 10th, and just had to go climbing on the next route.
I felt just as good – if not better – heating up in the isolation zone for semis. I was amped, however relaxed. Serene, although nervous. Unsure what the route could be like, but prepared.
It had been one of those times when it doesn’t come.
Every movement felt like a conflict, and three minutes later I found myself stood untying in my rope looking up wondering how and why it felt so wrong?
It was an experience. However, to move forward you have to accept disappointments and try and make them worthwhile by taking some advantages in addition to lessons from them.
That I definitely was in credentials, although I wasn’t content with my climbing in semis. I know so want to work on being able to reveal it 19, I am in good shape.
I have a few weeks before the World Cup year resumes at Kranj, Slovenia that is full of trainings and psychological preparation to make sure I’ve done all I could to ensure misfortunes or no mistakes are replicated later on!
As always, a huge thank you to anyone for encouraging me following my trip and Sky, even when the result is less than desirable!

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